Gordon Ramsay's Chilled Spring Pea Soup

In London last year Christa and I ate at Gordon Ramsay's restaurant in Claridge's Hotel. The meal was exquisite, and I've always remembered quite vividly the first course, a chilled, exceptionally creamy pea soup.

As a child, when my mother made split pea soup, I never enjoyed its pungent scent, a foul odor that permeated every room in the house despite my preemptive door-shuttings. (She hasn't prepared it in years, and perhaps if she did I'd find its aroma appetizing.) Consequently, when I encountered the pea soup at Gordon Ramsay's, the first thing I did was sniff it.

It smelled good.

It was very cold, but, interestingly, it smelled salty and fresh. Much like buttered peas, appropriately. Cream drizzled atop the light green soup -- the recipe in Mr. Ramsay's book includes a strip of bacon topping -- swirled slowly as I dipped in my spoon. This is what peas should taste like, I thought.

I didn't waste my time with it. I'm sure I finished it much more quickly than was proper, and, sadly, this was the only time I enjoyed it.

But, after discovering its recipe in Gordon Ramsay's book, A Chef for All Seasons, I aim to make it. Soon.

Photo: Gentil & Hyers, A Chef for All Seasons

Spring Pea Soup
A Chef for All Seasons, Gordon Ramsay

This is a light, creamy soup that has everything going for it — a tempting color, velvety smooth texture, and a wonderful fresh flavor. It’s always a harbinger of warmer weather and the opening of farmers’ markets all across the country.

Peas and bacon are a popular combination in England and in America, as the sweetness of the former plays well off the smokiness of the latter. I prefer to use Ventrech bacon from Alsace, but another lightly smoked, dry-cured bacon is fine.

Ingredients:

4 ounces lightly smoked sliced bacon
2 shallots, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh peas in pods, shelled
2 tablespoons dry white wine
4 cups Vegetable Nage or light chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream, plus a little extra for serving
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Reserve 4 slices of bacon and chop the rest. Place the chopped bacon in a saucepan with the shallots and oil. Heat until sizzling, then sweat over a low heat for about 5 minutes.

2. Add the peas and cook for a further 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook until it has evaporated.

3. Stir in the nage or stock and 1 cup of water, and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer for 15 minutes. Blend in a food processor or blender until smooth, then pass through a fine sieve into a bowl, rubbing with the back of a ladle. Leave to cool and then refrigerate.

4. Meanwhile, broil the reserved bacon slices until crisp. (In the restaurant we bake the slices between two heavy baking sheets to keep them straight and flat, but you may prefer the crinkly look.) Drain well on a paper towel so they aren’t greasy. Keep warm.

5 When the soup is well chilled, check the seasoning and whisk in the cream. Season again. Serve in bowls with a little extra cream trickled on top and a floating bacon slice.